Cagaloglu Hamami

Patricia Schultz’s book “1000 Places To See Before You Die” lists

the Cağaloğlu Hamam as a must do. The Cağaloğlu Hamam, finished in 1741, is the last hamam (Turkish Bath) to be built in the Ottoman Empire. It was constructed in Istanbul as a public hamam to raise revenue for the library of Sultan Mahmud I. It is the last example of its kind to be built in Istanbul, and is still operational today after 300 years of continuous operation.

The beautifully detailed building with high domed ceilings, internal marble fountains, interior garden, and two levels of individual changing chambers, is still an architectural delight. Built in the center of the old city, Cağaloğlu is easily accessible from the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. 

The hamam is a good place to refresh after a day of sightseeing and exploring. I think everyone has heard of a Turkish bath, but like me, without going to one then no one really has any idea just what it is or what goes on behind those walls. What I did know is that I wanted to experience it, or at least I thought I did. Mark was also on board for the experience but Bryan declined. He suffered heat exhaustion a number of years ago and he has never since been able to stand a sauna or steam room, or Arkansas summers for that matter.

In preparation for the event, Mark and I read blogs and reviews on hamams. We watched professional videos, such as when Rick Steves visited this same Hamam, as well as amateur videos. I think I studied more for this visit than I did when I got my first driver's license. But even with all the preparation we were still a bit apprehensive about it. 

The desk clerk was very considerate and explained everything to us. We were led to individual changing rooms where we were told to strip down and put a cloth around our waists, which they provided for us. We were also given a pair of comfy faux wooden slippers. We were then led into a back room to a large ornate wooden door which lead to the hamam. It was the point of no return. The door creaked open and we entered the main chamber and immediately escorted into a dry sauna to slow cook for a while.

We were each assigned an attendant that came and to retrieve us from the sauna after we were well basted in our own sweat. He stayed with us for the duration of the experience. All around the perimeter of the room were water basins, some containing hot water and some cold. The attendant dipped large wooden buckets into the basins and then proceeded to douse us till we looked like alarmed cats caught in an unexpected rain storm. Mark and I were in different parts of the room, even so I easily identified his ear piercing shriek as he got doused with ‘freezing’ cold water.

Next we were directed to lay down on the large granite slab in the middle of the room. The area was large enough for six to eight full grown men to lie on it without touching. First the attendant gave us a good head to toe scraping with a scouring pad mitt. They were professionals and skilled at being able to remove layer after layer of old dead skin, and still manage to stop before they drew any blood. Next came another dousing with warm water, probably to try and wash away any evidence of mistreatment. Then came foam, foam and more foam, until we were buried in it by maybe ten or so inches. The attendant then rubbed and massaged the foam into all the sore areas that he just created a few minutes earlier.  

Then more water. Buckets of it. And it kept coming. Shortly thereafter we were back at the basins around the edge of the room for more buckets of water. We then received a good hair shampooing followed by even more buckets of water. The attendant dried us off a bit before giving us a fresh dry wrap to change into. Several more dry towels were placed on, around, and over us till we looked like we had fallen into a cotton bin while covered with honey.  

We were escorted to a small cabana room with two lounges. We were brought snacks of nuts, Turkish delight, and Turkish tea. Our same attendants returned, all changed and wearing new dry outfits, and gave us a relaxing foot massage. After a little more snacking we returned to our changing rooms, put back on our street clothes, and were once again met by our attendants. They thanked us, smiled and bowed to us until they received a sufficient amount of tips, then we all went our separate ways.

In retrospect, it was still a bit of an odd situation, yet it was enjoyable to have someone fawning over us like we were royalty. I am glad for the experience, but next time I may just buy a box of Turkish Delight, make some yummy tea, and take a hot bath. It certainly would be a lot cheaper!